Driving Historic Route 66 has been a life-long dream. As I researched the route, I learned that it’s quite complicated to follow the original road. I purchased “Easy 66” by Jerry McClanahan, which provides simple turn-by-turn directions to follow the original route, or alternatively to follow one of the later routes if you choose. I can’t imagine driving 66 without this book!
In 1926, Route 66 was constructed by connecting existing roads where possible, such as post roads, railroad rights of way, and trails such as the Sante Fe Trail and El Camino Real. Original 66 traveled on the mains street of each town, and existing trails between towns. As vehicle ownership increased, and as 66 was increasingly used for interstate transit, the route was moved to secondary streets in towns and cities. Later, "loop" roads were built to bypass these communities.
Ultimately, the National Interstate and Defense Highway Act of 1956 authorized the construction of limited access highways farther from the town centers, or laid on top of the existing Route 66. Route 66 was the catalyst for development of services along its route, first service stations to provide gasoline and auto repair, then restaurants and finally hotels to support the burgeoning tourism industry. But as 66 was rerouted out of towns and cities, many of these businesses collapsed. The remnants of these former businesses are evident throughout the journey, and add to the mystique of Route 66.
Route 66 passes through major cities and countless small towns from Chicago to Santa Monica, the 1926 route extends 2,440 miles! In Illinois and Missouri, towns are built around a public square, a style brought by the New Englanders who settled the Midwest; county seats would have a courthouse prominently located on the square. The "frontier" towns from Oklahoma to California are built along the railroad, with the train depot at the center of town. Streets run parallel to the tracks on the depot side, where most of the town lies. The poorer homes are on "the wrong side of the tracks". Exceptions are the Spanish colonial towns like Santa Fe and Albuquerque, which are built around a plaza, common throughout Spain.
As we visited museums along the route, we noticed how many international travelers were driving 66. It was great to see so many people from every continent experiencing America along the Mother Road.
Illinois
It's great to start the trip in the great city of Chicago! There are amazing architectural gems throughout. The Chicago Architectural Center has a great display of the architectural evolution of Chicago, and a short movie that describes the history of Chicago. Inside the Federal Reserve Bank of Chicago (S LaSalle St) is the Money Museum, a small but very interesting history of money (free).
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Buckingham Fountain |
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Chicago Cultural Center |
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Union Station |
The deep dish pizza at Pequod’s on N Clybourn was great, with caramelized crust that distinguished it from other deep dish pizzas we’ve had in Chicago. Across Clybourn is Kibbitznest Books & Brews, a great used bookstore/bar/coffee shop. In the West Loop/Fulton Market neighborhood, we had an excellent Mediterranean dinner on the rooftop at Aba.
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Rookery Building Light Court |
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Chicago River at night |
We visited some of the famous landmarks in Chicago. The Rookery building was constructed in 1888 by the venerable Burnham & Root architects (Burnham designed the sites of the 1893 World Exposition), and Frank Lloyd Wright later added the glass “light court”. There is a small gift shop in the Light Court that offers Frank Lloyd Wright walking tours. Union Station is massive and beautiful. The Chicago Cultural Center, located in the former public library, has an amazing interior covered in mosaics. The Macy's located in the former Marshall Field & Co department store has a beautiful atrium with a mosaic ceiling. Finally, we walked out to the end of the Navy Pier, which has several bars and restaurants and a great view of the city and Lake Michigan.
Route 66 Begins
Route 66 Begins at Michigan Avenue and Adams Street, there is a 66 Marker on the south aide of the street. Heading west on Adams, you leave the Loop and the city of Chicago, joining Illinois Route 66 which took over Illinois State Highway 4, a pre-existing, fully paved two-lane road between Chicago and St. Louis which followed the Pontiac Trail, a former Indian trail and stagecoach road. Near Joliet, Merichka's is a local icon. They are known for the Poorboy Steak with Garlic Butterine, on French Bread with Swiss Cheese. With over 7 million served since 1933, I would guess that heart disease is the leading cause of death in Joliet IL. Driving through Joliet we saw Joliet Prison (from a distance), the Rialto theater, the Pontiac courthouse and the very first Dairy Queen (now a Mexican restaurant). There are lots of “Blues Brothers” sites in Joliet.
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Lincoln IL Courthouse |
The Route 66 signage in Illinois is excellent, and distinguishes between the 1926-1930 alignment and the post-1930 route. The signs are ubiquitous, and make it very easy to stay on the desired route.
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Dead Man's Curve near Towanda, Burma Shave signs |
Between Chicago and the Mississippi, Route 66 passes through lots of great towns with courthouses located in the main square, and restored filling stations supporting the 66 travelers. The Gardner Texaco station is one of the best preserved. Dwight is home to the First National Bank building designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Pontiac, Atlanta and Lincoln have amazing courthouses. The famous Burma Shave signs have been restored along 66.
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Atlanta Courthouse |
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First Bank of Dwight |
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Gardner Texaco |
While in Springfield we visited the Lincoln Presidential Museum and Library, and Lincoln Home National Historic Site, which is a beautifully restored 2 block area in Springfield. The old state house is a beautiful building, as is the Illinois Capitol building.
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Lincoln Law Office |
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Old Illinois State House |
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Lincoln Home NHS |
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Bunyon Giant, Atlanta |
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O'Dell 1932 Standard Stn |
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Pontiac Courthouse |
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Brick Route 66 Auburn IL |
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Carlinville "Million Dollar" Courthouse |
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Deerfield loop |
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Edwardsville station |
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Mt Olive station |
Missouri
Kansas
Although Kansas has only 13 miles of route 66 cutting its south-east corner, there are some great sights packed into a short distance. The MO-KS State Line is clearly marked on the road. Galena has an historical downtown. When the director of Pixar’s “Cars” John Lasseter and the film animator Joe Ranft visited the Kan-O-Tex Service Station on historic Route 66 in Galena and saw the rusty tow truck, it that inspired the character “Tow Mater.” Throughout Galena you see inspirations from “Cars”. The Rainbow Bridge near Baxter Springs is a relic of the past.
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Baxter concrete bridge |
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Galena train depot |
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Galena Kano-Tex "Cars" station |
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Cars |
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Missouri-Kansas Line |
Oklahoma
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1927 Marathon Station Commerce OK |
Oklahoma possesses the most miles (415) of original Route 66 than any other state, but this was reduced to 383 once the route was paved. Most of these are still in existence, including dirt and gravel portions that can still be driven. Oklahoma is proud of their Route 66 heritage, every town has signs and murals celebrating the Mother Road, and the road is very well signed. The flat plains of Oklahoma run from border-to-border, and each small town maintains its frontier atmosphere. There are still portions of original 9-foot pavement on 66 near Narcissa, a brick road on Main Street in Davenport, and a stretch near Arcadia that is on the National Register of Historic Places.
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1926 bridge, Chelsea OK |
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Foyil OK Texaco |
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9 foot road (note curb) Narcissa OK |
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Catoosa Whale |
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Will Rogers Blvd Claremore OK |
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Desert Hills Motel Tulsa |
Tulsa has lots of landmarks, like the iconic Golden Driller at the state fair grounds, and the blue dome gas station from 1925. The Greenwood Rising museum provides an excellent history of the tragic racist massacre that burned the "Black Wall Street" of Tulsa and killed dozens in 1921.
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1925 Blue Dome gas station |
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Golden Driller |
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Tulsa Union Station |
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Red Fork depot |
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Giant gas pump, Sapulpa |
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Tee Pee drive-in, Sapulpa |
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Tammy's Round Up Cafe Chandler OK |
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Davenport mural |
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Depew OK |
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Chandler OK |
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Arcadia 66 segment NRHP |
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Arcadia 1898 round barn |
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Timber Creek Bridge Elk City OK |
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Erick OK mural Roger Miller, "King of the Road" |
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Gravel road, Foss OK |
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Sayre Post Office "Land Run" mural from 1930 |
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Sayre Town Hall |
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Texola Frontier Jail |
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Sayre Western Motel |
Texas
Route 66 crosses the panhandle of Texas, 178 miles of flat, cattle grazing land. Most of the original 66 still exists, much of it running parallel to Interstate 40 as a "frontage road". The highlight of the trip across Texas is the beautifully-restored Conoco Station in Shamrock, which has a restaurant and a gift shop (of course).
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An "authentic" piece of the Blarney Stone, Shamrock TX |
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Conoco Station, Shamrock |
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Magnolia Station, Shamrock |
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Dirt 66, McLean TX |
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Dirt 66, McLean TX |
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McLean filling station |
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Remnants of Super 66 station Alanreed TX |
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Historic 6th St, Amarillo TX |
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Route 66, 6th St Amarillo |
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Midpoint Cafe, Adrian TX |
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Midpoint (1139 miles to go) Adrian TX |
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Cadillac Ranch, west of Amarillo |
New Mexico
Entering New Mexico from the flat grazing lands of Texas, mesas appear on the horizon, and the Sandia mountains rise as you approach Santa Fe.
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Cuerva NM mesas, 66 runs along Santa Fe RR tracks |
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Tucumcari Blue Swan Motel |
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Tucumcari Texaco |
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Pre-1937 Route 66 follows Santa Fe Trail |
Santa Fe was the Spanish capitol of their colony of New Mexico, stretching from Texas to California. It was a major trading site, where the El Camino Real trail connected Santa Fe to the colonial capitol of Mexico City, and later the Santa Fe trail led east to Kansas. It became a major rail center with the introduction of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad. Later, Route 66 connected to Santa Fe between 1926 and 1937, before the city was bypassed by a shortcut.
The New Mexico History Museum was very well curated, and the attached Palace of the Governors is the oldest public building in the US, constructed in 1610. The Basilica Cathedral of St Francis of Assisi is beautiful, including the outdoor Stations of the Cross Garden. San Miguel Chapel is the oldest church in America, dating from 1610. The Loretto Chapel has an incredible “Miraculous Stairs”, which are circular stairs without any internal support – quite the carpentry feat! State Capitol building has art galleries open to the public, and allows entry into the chambers of both the State Senate and State House. The Santa Fe depot and Railyard are loaded with art galleries and restaurants.
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San Miguel Chapel, oldest church (1610) |
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Palace of the Governors, oldest public building 1610 |
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Santa Fe Basilica |
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Santa Fe Oldest House |
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Santa Fe Oldest House
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Santa Fe Depot |
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Lensic Theater |
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Santa Fe Trail |
Leaving Santa Fe, the Sandia Mountains fade away, and mesas are again visible along the horizon. West of Albuquerque, the landscape turns to high desert all the way into Arizona, with lava flows visible along the route.
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El Camino Motel Albuquerque |
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Route 66 follow El Camino Real Bernalillo NM |
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Sunset over Santa Fe |
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Albuquerque Kimo Theater
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Albuquerque Old Town Plaza |
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Albuquerque giant roadrunner |
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Budville Trading Co |
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Continental Divide |
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Winding Route 66 Laguna NM |
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Cubero station |
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El Ranchero, Milan bad sign, great food |
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Iyanbito NM |
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Mesa near Prewitt NM |
Arizona
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Two Guns, AZ |
Entering Arizona from New Mexico, you drive through high desert with spectacular views of mountains and rock formations west of Lupton. Driving through the Painted Desert National Park is beautiful. Winslow is famous for "Standing on the corner" lyrics from the Eagles' Take it Easy, but it also has several great sights, including the awesome La Posada (Harvey House) hotel.
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Lupton |
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Lupton |
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Lupton |
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Painted desert |
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Painted desert |
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Painted desert |
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Standing on the Corner |
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La Posada Hotel former Harvey House attached to Santa Fe train depot |
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Winslow Texaco station |
Leaving Winslow, the elevation climbs towards Flagstaff as you pass through forests of coniferous trees in the foothills of the San Francisco Peaks. On the western side of Flagstaff, there is a drop in elevation and the landscape turns to high desert again.
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Flagstaff train depot |
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Flagstaff Western Hills Motel |
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near Winona AZ |
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Fortynine Hill gravel road |
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Seligman Supai Motel |
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Seligman Texaco |
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Crookton Berma Shave sign |
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Crozier Canyon |
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Seligman |
Kingman has a lot of Route 66 attractions. The Hill Top motel has a great neon sign, but is notorious as the place terrorist Timothy McVey stayed prior to the Oklahoma City bombing. Great sights at El Trovatore, the train depot and the Old Trails Garage. The Beale Hotel was named after Edward Beale who surveyed the Wagon Road in 1856 along the 35th parallel that would become a right of way for the AT&SF Railroad, and later Route 66 would follow along those tracks. An old stretch of 66 winds south from Kingman on Old Trails Road to a dead end, with very narrow passes between rocks. Farther westward, 66 traverses the Sacramento Wash and climbs the steep Black Mountains, then plunges down into the desert through Oatman, where wild donkeys try to get food from the passing motorists.
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Hackberry General Store |
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Kingman Beale Street |
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Kingman Hill Top Motel |
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Kingman train depot |
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Old 66 west of Kingman |
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Welcome to Kingman |
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Sacramento Wash |
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Rest Stop |
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Sacramento Wash |
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Climbing the Black Mountains |
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view from Black Mountains |
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near Golden Shores |
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Oatman donkeys seeking shade |
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Oatman donkey asking for food |
California
Crossing the Colorado River into California, it is a long drive through the Mojave Desert to Barstow and onto San Bernardino, where the LA Metro area stretches over 75 miles of uninterrupted urban sprawl. There are some great sights along the Foothill Blvd from San Bernardino through Rialto, Rancho Cucamonga, Claremont, Glendora and Pasadena.
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Mojave Desert |
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Needles CA |
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Bagdad Cafe |
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Amboy CA |
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66 Motel, Barstow |
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Barstow Harvey House |
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Cajon Pass along San Andreas Fault |
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Original McDonalds San Bernardino |
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Emma Jean's, Victorville |
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WigWam Motel, Rialto
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California Theater 1928 San Bernardino |
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San Bernardino Santa Fe Depot |
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Sycamore Inn, 1848 Stagecoach stop, Rancho Cucamonga |
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Richfield Station Rancho Cucamonga |
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1920 Pavement used in first Route 66 Rancho Cucamonga |
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Colorado Blvd Pasadena |
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Pasadena City Hall |
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Gumdrop Trees in Glenora |
From Pasadena, the 1926 alignment of Route 66 follows what is now the Arroyo Seco Parkway into downtown LA, ending at 7th and Broadway. This route has been paved over as a freeway, so we opted for the post 1936 route that follows Colorado Blvd, Figueroa St, Sunset Blvd and Santa Monica Blvd (through West Hollywood and Beverly Hills), ending at Olympic and Lincoln in Santa Monica.
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Santa Monica Blvd |
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Formosa Cafe since 1939 |
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Pink's, West Hollywood |
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End of Route 66 Olympic and Lincoln |
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Mel's Drive In mural |
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Note "Route 66 Ends" sign in background |
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Santa Monica pier |
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Sunset in Santa Monica |
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Ocean Dr Santa Monica |
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End of Route 66 1926-36 7th and Broadway |
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End of Route 66 1926-36 7th and Broadway |
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