Friday, October 18, 2024

Old Route 66 from Chicago and Santa Monica

 

Driving Historic Route 66 has been a life-long dream.  As I researched the route, I learned that it’s quite complicated to follow the original road.  I purchased “Easy 66” by Jerry McClanahan, which provides simple turn-by-turn directions to follow the original route, or alternatively to follow one of the later routes if you choose.  I can’t imagine driving 66 without this book!

In 1926, Route 66 was constructed by connecting existing roads where possible, such as post roads, railroad rights of way, and trails such as the Sante Fe Trail and El Camino Real.  Original 66 traveled on the mains street of each town, and existing trails between towns.  As vehicle ownership increased, and as 66 was increasingly used for interstate transit, the route was moved to secondary streets in towns and cities.  Later, "loop" roads were built to bypass these communities.  

Ultimately, the National Interstate and Defense Highway Act of 1956 authorized the construction of limited access highways farther from the town centers, or laid on top of the existing Route 66.  Route 66 was the catalyst for development of services along its route, first service stations to provide gasoline and auto repair, then restaurants and finally hotels to support the burgeoning tourism industry.  But as 66 was rerouted out of towns and cities, many of these businesses collapsed.  The remnants of these former businesses are evident throughout the journey, and add to the mystique of Route 66.  

Route 66 passes through major cities and countless small towns from Chicago to Santa Monica, the 1926 route extends 2,440 miles!  In Illinois and Missouri, towns are built around a public square, a style brought by the New Englanders who settled the Midwest; county seats would have a courthouse prominently located on the square.  The "frontier" towns from Oklahoma to California are built along the railroad, with the train depot at the center of town.  Streets run parallel to the tracks on the depot side, where most of the town lies.  The poorer homes are on "the wrong side of the tracks".  Exceptions are the Spanish colonial towns like Santa Fe and Albuquerque, which are built around a plaza, common throughout Spain.  

As we visited museums along the route, we noticed how many international travelers were driving 66.   It was great to see so many people from every continent experiencing America along the Mother Road.  



Illinois 



It's great to start the trip in the great city of Chicago! There are amazing architectural gems throughout.  The Chicago Architectural Center has a great display of the architectural evolution of Chicago, and a short movie that describes the history of Chicago.  Inside the Federal Reserve Bank of Chicago (S LaSalle St) is the Money Museum, a small but very interesting history of money (free). 



Buckingham Fountain


Chicago Cultural Center

Union Station






The deep dish pizza at Pequod’s on N Clybourn was great, with caramelized crust that distinguished it from other deep dish pizzas we’ve had in Chicago.  Across Clybourn is Kibbitznest Books & Brews, a great used bookstore/bar/coffee shop.  In the West Loop/Fulton Market neighborhood, we had an excellent Mediterranean dinner on the rooftop at Aba.  



Rookery Building Light Court


Chicago River at night

We visited some of the famous landmarks in Chicago.  The Rookery building was constructed in 1888 by the venerable Burnham & Root architects (Burnham designed the sites of the 1893 World Exposition), and Frank Lloyd Wright later added the glass “light court”.  There is a small gift shop in the Light Court that offers Frank Lloyd Wright walking tours.  Union Station is massive and beautiful. The Chicago Cultural Center, located in the former public library, has an amazing interior covered in mosaics.   The Macy's located in the former Marshall Field & Co department store has a beautiful atrium with a mosaic ceiling.  Finally, we walked out to the end of the Navy Pier, which has several bars and restaurants and a great view of the city and Lake Michigan.  


Route 66 Begins

Route 66 Begins at Michigan Avenue and Adams Street, there is a 66 Marker on the south aide of the street.  Heading west on Adams, you leave the Loop and the city of Chicago, joining Illinois Route 66 which took over Illinois State Highway 4, a pre-existing, fully paved two-lane road between Chicago and St. Louis which followed the Pontiac Trail, a former Indian trail and stagecoach road. 

Near Joliet, Merichka's is a local icon. They are known for the Poorboy Steak with Garlic Butterine, on French Bread with Swiss Cheese.  With over 7 million served since 1933, I would guess that heart disease is the leading cause of death in Joliet IL.  Driving through Joliet we saw Joliet Prison (from a distance), the Rialto theater, the Pontiac courthouse and the very first Dairy Queen (now a Mexican restaurant).  There are lots of “Blues Brothers” sites in Joliet.  

Lincoln IL Courthouse

The Route 66 signage in Illinois is excellent, and distinguishes between the 1926-1930 alignment and the post-1930 route.  The signs are ubiquitous, and make it very easy to stay on the desired route.  



Dead Man's Curve near Towanda,
Burma Shave signs

Between Chicago and the Mississippi, Route 66 passes through lots of great towns with courthouses located in the main square, and restored filling stations supporting the 66 travelers.  The Gardner Texaco station is one of the best preserved.  Dwight is home to the First National Bank building designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.  Pontiac, Atlanta and Lincoln have amazing courthouses.  The famous Burma Shave signs have been restored along 66.



Atlanta Courthouse

First Bank of Dwight

Gardner Texaco






While in Springfield we visited the Lincoln Presidential Museum and Library, and Lincoln Home National Historic Site, which is a beautifully restored 2 block area in Springfield.  The old state house is a beautiful building, as is the Illinois Capitol building.  

Lincoln Law Office

Old Illinois State House

Lincoln Home NHS






Bunyon Giant, Atlanta

O'Dell 1932 Standard Stn

Pontiac Courthouse












Brick Route 66
Auburn IL

Carlinville "Million Dollar"
Courthouse 

Deerfield loop










Edwardsville station

Mt Olive station


































Missouri

Joplin

Crossing the Mississippi and moving west from St Louis, the different topography is evident.  The flat corn fields of Illinois give way to the rolling hills of eastern Missouri, approaching the Ozarks.  Missouri does not distinguish between the routes, but does display “Route 66 Bi-way” signs at all intersections.   Leaving St Louis, we made the mandatory stop at Ted Drewes frozen custard stand, home of the “concrete”, so thick they hold the cup upside down when serving it.   Carthage is a well-preserved town with a great square and courthouse, and one of many murals we see along our drive.  Marshfield is home to astronomer Edwin Hubble, with a scale model space telescope.  Springfield has a well-restored 1938 Best Western motel.


Carthage courthouse

Carthage mural

Carthage main square











Uranus Fudge Factory
(only on 66!)

Sunset over Rolla MO

Springfield Best Western

Spencer Trestle Bridge

Hubble telescope



















Giant Chef, Springfield

Munger Moss Motel
Lebanon MO

Boots Court Motel
Carthage MO




























Kansas
Although Kansas has only 13 miles of route 66 cutting its south-east corner, there are some great sights packed into a short distance.  The MO-KS State Line is clearly marked on the road.  Galena has an historical downtown.  When the director of Pixar’s “Cars” John Lasseter and the film animator Joe Ranft visited the Kan-O-Tex Service Station on historic Route 66 in Galena and saw the rusty tow truck, it that inspired the character “Tow Mater.”  Throughout Galena you see inspirations from “Cars”.  The Rainbow Bridge near Baxter Springs is a relic of the past.


Baxter concrete bridge

Galena train depot

Galena Kano-Tex "Cars" station

Cars

Missouri-Kansas Line



























Oklahoma

1927 Marathon Station
Commerce OK

Oklahoma possesses the most miles (415) of original Route 66  than any other state, but this was reduced to 383 once the route was paved.  Most of these are still in existence, including dirt and gravel portions that can still be driven.  Oklahoma is proud of their Route 66 heritage, every town has signs and murals celebrating the Mother Road, and the road is very well signed.  The flat plains of Oklahoma run from border-to-border, and each small town maintains its frontier atmosphere.   There are still portions of original 9-foot pavement on 66 near Narcissa, a brick road on Main Street in Davenport, and a stretch near Arcadia that is on the National Register of Historic Places.  

1926 bridge, Chelsea OK

Foyil OK Texaco

9 foot road (note curb)
Narcissa OK






Catoosa Whale

Will Rogers Blvd
Claremore OK

Desert Hills Motel Tulsa












Tulsa has lots of landmarks, like the iconic Golden Driller at the state fair grounds, and the blue dome gas station from 1925.  The Greenwood Rising museum provides an excellent history of the tragic racist massacre that burned the "Black Wall Street" of Tulsa and killed dozens in 1921.  

1925 Blue Dome gas station

Golden Driller

Tulsa Union Station








Red Fork depot

Giant gas pump, Sapulpa

Tee Pee drive-in, Sapulpa








Tammy's Round Up Cafe
Chandler OK

Davenport mural

Depew OK













Chandler OK    

Arcadia 66 segment NRHP

Arcadia 1898 round barn





Timber Creek Bridge
Elk City OK

Erick OK mural
Roger Miller, "King of the Road"

Gravel road, Foss OK







Sayre Post Office
"Land Run" mural from 1930

Sayre Town Hall

Texola Frontier Jail

Sayre Western Motel




Texas

Route 66 crosses the panhandle of Texas, 178 miles of flat, cattle grazing land.  Most of the original 66 still exists, much of it running parallel to Interstate 40 as a "frontage road".  The highlight of the trip across Texas is the beautifully-restored Conoco Station in Shamrock, which has a restaurant and a gift shop (of course).  

An "authentic" piece of the
Blarney Stone, Shamrock TX

Conoco Station, Shamrock

Magnolia Station, Shamrock

 





Dirt 66, McLean TX

Dirt 66, McLean TX

McLean filling station






Remnants of Super 66 station
Alanreed TX

Historic 6th St, Amarillo TX

Route 66, 6th St Amarillo






Midpoint Cafe, Adrian TX

Midpoint (1139 miles to go)
Adrian TX

Cadillac Ranch,
west of Amarillo




























New Mexico

Entering New Mexico from the flat grazing lands of Texas, mesas appear on the horizon, and the Sandia mountains rise as you approach Santa Fe.  

Cuerva NM mesas,
66 runs along Santa Fe RR tracks

Tucumcari Blue Swan Motel

Tucumcari Texaco






Pre-1937 Route 66 
follows Santa Fe Trail


Santa Fe was the Spanish capitol of their colony of New Mexico, stretching from Texas to California.  It was a major trading site, where the El Camino Real trail connected Santa Fe to the colonial capitol of Mexico City, and later the Santa Fe trail led east to Kansas.  It became a major rail center with the introduction of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad.  Later, Route 66 connected to Santa Fe between 1926 and 1937, before the city was bypassed by a shortcut.   



The New Mexico History Museum was very well curated, and the attached Palace of the Governors is the oldest public building in the US, constructed in 1610. The Basilica Cathedral of St Francis of Assisi is beautiful, including the outdoor Stations of the Cross Garden.  San Miguel Chapel is the oldest church in America, dating from 1610.  The Loretto Chapel has an incredible “Miraculous Stairs”, which are circular stairs without any internal support – quite the carpentry feat!  State Capitol building has art galleries open to the public, and allows entry into the chambers of both the State Senate and State House.  The Santa Fe depot and Railyard are loaded with art galleries and restaurants.  

San Miguel Chapel,
oldest church (1610)


Palace of the Governors,
oldest public building 1610







Santa Fe Basilica

Santa Fe Oldest House

Santa Fe Oldest House






Santa Fe Depot

Lensic Theater

Santa Fe Trail






Leaving Santa Fe, the Sandia Mountains fade away, and mesas are again visible along the horizon.  West of Albuquerque, the landscape turns to high desert all the way into Arizona, with lava flows visible along the route. 

El Camino Motel
Albuquerque

Route 66 follow El Camino Real
Bernalillo NM

Sunset over Santa Fe






Albuquerque Kimo Theater

Albuquerque Old Town Plaza

Albuquerque giant roadrunner








Budville Trading Co

Continental Divide

Winding Route 66
Laguna NM







Cubero station

El Ranchero, Milan
bad sign, great food








Iyanbito NM

Mesa near Prewitt NM





















Arizona

Two Guns, AZ

Entering Arizona from New Mexico, you drive through high desert with spectacular views of mountains and rock formations west of Lupton.  Driving through the Painted Desert National Park is beautiful.  Winslow is famous for "Standing on the corner" lyrics from the Eagles' Take it Easy, but it also has several great sights, including the awesome La Posada (Harvey House) hotel.  



Lupton
Lupton

Lupton






Painted desert

Painted desert

Painted desert






Standing on the Corner

La Posada Hotel
former Harvey House attached to
Santa Fe train depot

Winslow Texaco station












Leaving Winslow, the elevation climbs towards Flagstaff as you pass through forests of coniferous trees in the foothills of the San Francisco Peaks.  On the western side of Flagstaff, there is a drop in elevation and the landscape turns to high desert again.  

Flagstaff train depot

Flagstaff Western Hills Motel

near Winona AZ






Fortynine Hill gravel road

Seligman Supai Motel

Seligman Texaco






Crookton Berma Shave sign

Crozier Canyon

Seligman
















Kingman has a lot of Route 66 attractions.  The Hill Top motel has a great neon sign, but is notorious as the place terrorist Timothy McVey stayed prior to the Oklahoma City bombing.  Great sights at El Trovatore, the train depot and the Old Trails Garage.  The Beale Hotel was named after Edward Beale who surveyed the Wagon Road in 1856 along the 35th parallel that would become a right of way for the AT&SF Railroad, and later Route 66 would follow along those tracks.  An old stretch of 66 winds south from Kingman on Old Trails Road to a dead end, with very narrow passes between rocks.  Farther westward, 66 traverses the Sacramento Wash and climbs the steep Black Mountains, then plunges down into the desert through Oatman, where wild donkeys try to get food from the passing motorists.     

Hackberry General Store

Kingman Beale Street

Kingman Hill Top Motel






Kingman train depot

Old 66 west of Kingman

Welcome to Kingman






Sacramento Wash

Rest Stop

Sacramento Wash






Climbing the Black Mountains

view from Black Mountains

near Golden Shores





Oatman donkeys seeking shade

Oatman donkey asking for food



















California



Crossing the Colorado River into California, it is a long drive through the Mojave Desert to Barstow and onto San Bernardino, where the LA Metro area stretches over 75 miles of uninterrupted urban sprawl.   There are some great sights along the Foothill Blvd from San Bernardino through Rialto, Rancho Cucamonga, Claremont, Glendora and Pasadena.



Mojave Desert

Needles CA

Bagdad Cafe





Amboy CA

66 Motel, Barstow

Barstow Harvey House





Cajon Pass along
San Andreas Fault

Original McDonalds
San Bernardino

Emma Jean's, Victorville






WigWam Motel, Rialto

California Theater 1928
San Bernardino

San Bernardino
Santa Fe Depot


Sycamore Inn, 1848 Stagecoach
stop, Rancho Cucamonga

Richfield Station
Rancho Cucamonga

1920 Pavement
used in first Route 66
Rancho Cucamonga












Colorado Blvd Pasadena

Pasadena City Hall

Gumdrop Trees in Glenora

From Pasadena, the 1926 alignment of Route 66 follows what is now the Arroyo Seco Parkway into downtown LA, ending at 7th and Broadway.  This route has been paved over as a freeway, so we opted for the post 1936 route that follows Colorado Blvd, Figueroa St, Sunset Blvd and Santa Monica Blvd (through West Hollywood and Beverly Hills), ending at Olympic and Lincoln in Santa Monica.  

Santa Monica Blvd

Formosa Cafe since 1939

Pink's, West Hollywood


End of Route 66
Olympic and Lincoln

Mel's Drive In mural

Note "Route 66 Ends"
sign in background


Santa Monica pier

Sunset in Santa Monica

Ocean Dr Santa Monica


End of Route 66 1926-36
7th and Broadway

End of Route 66 1926-36
7th and Broadway