Where in the World are the Wendells: Siena, Italy

Siena was one of the powerful city-states that dominated medieval Italy, along with Florence and the Papal States (Rome), plus others. Siena controlled much of the southern Tuscan region that we explored, and its influences are obvious in those towns. For centuries the Sienese have depicted the city as a she-wolf, suckling her citizens; this image appears throughout the city.

The main square is Piazza il Campo, dominated by the Palazza Pubblica (City Hall), which was built in 1340 and stands 330 feet tall. Siena is the birthplace of secular society, separate from pope or king, and the City Hall and Tower represent Siena’s power and pride in their independence. The square is actually fan-shaped, with the City Hall at the flat end, and the Fountain of Joy at the top of the fan.

Fountain of Joy

il Campo

Palazza Pubblica (City Hall)

She-wolf symbol of Siena

Palazza Pubblica

Palazza Pubblica entrance

Siena has 17 historic neighborhoods, or Cantrade, that maintain a strong sense of independence. There are plaques, flags and animal mascots on nearly every street with the insignia of the Contrade. For hundreds of years, these Contrade have competed in the famous Palio horse race around il Capo. Before we were married, Tammy and I visited Siena, not knowing that the day we visited was the Palio, and the town was so crowded we had to leave without seeing anything. Before leaving, we snuck under the bleachers and caught a glimpse of the horse race. Over 30 years later we finally got to see the sites of Siena!

Contrada mascot

Contrada banner

Street with Contrada flags

For a medieval city, the streets are surprisingly wide and “relatively” straight. The narrower streets often have arches overheard, providing support for the buildings on both sides. The main streets such as Via di Citta are lined with former Palazzos (palaces of the wealthy). In many cases, you can see a mix of architectural styles where a Renaissance façade was placed on a Gothic building that was erected on top of a Romanesque (medieval) structure. [picture of Piazza Independeza]

Porta Tufi

Street leading to il Campo

Via di Citta

Piazza Independenza

Palazza Chigri on Via di Citta

Palazzo Chigri
courtyard and well

The Duomo (Cathedral) is one of the most impressive we’ve seen, with unique white and green marble. The floors are elaborate mosaics that depict religious events and stories from the old and new testaments; see pictures below of Siena depicted as a she-wolf with lesser city states encircling her, and Slaughter of the Innocents depicting Herod ordering the killing of all babies to prevent the coming of the Messiah. The heads of 172 popes, from St Peter through the church construction in the 13^th century, look down on you from above. Paintings by Donatello and sculptures by Bernini adorn the church. The marble pulpit from 1268 is incredible, as is the ceiling of the Piccolomini Library.

Duomo nave, towards altar

Duomo nave, toward entrance

Duomo facade (note
unfinished nave to the right)

Siena as she-wolf mosaic

Some of the 172 Popes

Duomo Altar

Bernini's Mary Magdelene

Carrara marble pulpit from 1268

Piccolomini ceiling

Three Graces

Slaughter of the Innocents

The adjoining Duomo museum has some amazing relics from the cathedral, such as the original Duccio stained glass window from 1288 and his "Maesta" Passion of Christ. Donatello's Madonna and Child is a masterpiece.

Madonna and Child

Passion of Christ

Duccio's stained-glass window

As massive as the Duomo is, at the height of Siena’s power, civic leaders planned to greatly expand the church to be the largest in the Christian world. The current cathedral would have been just the transept of the new cathedral. The massive nave was started before funding ran out, and now the empty shell can be seen to the east of the church (to the right when facing the main entrance).