Scenic drive through Tuscany

 

We prefer to travel by train whenever possible, but to experience the beautiful scenery and small hill towns of Tuscany you need a car.  There are several substantial towns, and dozens of small towns to visit, and multiple road options to connect them.  We followed the Heart of Tuscany tour by Rick Steves, which is a full day tour and an ideal way to experience Tuscany, starting and ending in Montepulciano.  We chose to visit Montalcino on another day, to devote more time to that town and to the rest of the Heart of Tuscany drive.  

View of Pienza

Spedaletto Caste on the Via Francigena

Pienza

The 15th century Pope Pius II came from Pienza, and he established a plan to remodel the town as a papal residence.  The main square, Piazza Pio II, is surrounded by beautiful Renaissance buildings, particularly the Duomo (completed in 1462) and the formal Papal palace (Palazzo Piccolomini).

Duomo nave

Duomo

Palazzo Comunale (City Hall)

Pienza is a small, walled city with great views of the Tuscan countryside, worth a couple hours to tour, with winding streets that are great to explore.  The local specialty is Pecorino cheese, and there are numerous stores where you can sample the local product.  The Church of San Francesco predates the alterations made to the town by Pope Pius II, and still retains its original 14th century frescoes.

Pienza main gate

 

 

San Francesco fresco

Monticchiello

Not to be confused with Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello (he made up that name), Monticchiello is just outside Pienza.  A tiny hill town with almost no commercial activity, you can really feel like you are walking in a medieval town. The highlight of the town is the fantastic restaurant Osteria La Porta.  It was our best meal in Tuscany, and the small outdoor terrace provided amazing views of the Tuscan landscape.   

Pieve Santi Leonardo

Monticchiello street

 Monticchiello street

 

Santi Leonardo chapel

Santi Leonardo fresco

Altar - zoom in to see "corpse" of
Giovanni Benincasa behind glass

Our best lunch in Tuscany

View from La Porta

Osteria La Porta

Bagno Vignoni

A thermal spa has existed in Bagno Vignoni (pronounced “bah-nee-yo veen-yo-nee”) since the Etruscan era, and was populated during the Roman Empire.  Via Francigena is an ancient pilgrimage path that connected northern Europe to Rome during medieval times, passing through Bagno Vignoni which served as a resting place for pilgrims.  

The town that grew around the thermal spa in the medieval period is well preserved.  A large thermal bath makes up the Piazza delle Sorgenti in the center of the town.  The thermal bath is surrounded on two sides by hotels and cafes.  Walking Via Sorgenti from the bath, the thermal water flows under the street, then emerges and flows through troughs until it spills over a cliff where ruins of water-powered mills remain.  Bagno Vignoni is a beautiful little village, worth a couple hours and lunch, longer if you want to take a soak in the thermal water.  

Bagno Vignoni street

Piazza delle Sorgenti (the Source)

Piazza delle Sorgenti