Salerno

 

Castelle di Arche

Unlike the other Amalfi towns, Salerno did not feel like a tourist destination; rather, it seemed to be populated primarily with locals.  The waterfront area has a nice promenade along the Mediterranean.   The old town has narrow streets and arches connecting buildings as reinforcement.  The main shopping street in the old town is Via Merchanti, lined with shops and some restaurants (clearly catering to locals).  Via Botteghelle is a cute medieval street.  The town is a little grungy, similar to Palermo, but it has character.  Salerno dates from Etruscan times, but the Romans established the city.  Castelle di Arche, situated on the hilltop overlooking the city, was built in the 8^th century when Salerno was ruled by the Byzantines after the fall of Rome.  Salerno was conquered by the Normans, who built an aqueduct in the 11^th century, sections of which still exist.  The Spanish ruled Salerno from the 15^th to the 18^th century, when Salerno was brought into the unified Italy in 1861. 

 

 

 

Norman aqueduct

 

The most famous site to visit is the Duomo San Matteo (Cathedral of Saint Matthew), which contains the bodily remains of St Mark the apostle and disciple, which were discovered in the 10^th century and moved to Salerno.  The Cathedral’s construction was started in 1076, after the Normans conquered Salerno, to house St Matthew’s remains.  The four-sided portico, in the shape of a courtyard, has relics and sarcophagi from the second and third century. 

Courtyard and bell tower

Brass Cathedral doors

Entrance to Cathedral courtyard

 

Suckling lion at the gate

St Matthew

The cathedral has an austere nave, whitewashed during an 18^th century reconstruction.   There are several elements to the altar area that are beautiful, with inlaid tiles that look Arabic.  The mosaics above the altar are incredible – they were made by artisans from Ravenna as commissioned by William of Ravenna, the archbishop of Solerno in the 12^th century (Tammy and I saw the Cathedral in Ravenna with mosaics that inspired these). 

Ravenna mosaic above altar

Nave and altar

Pulpit tiles

The crypt with the remains of St Matthew was amazing, incredibly ornate marble mosaics and frescoes on the walls and ceilings. 

St Matthew Crypt

St Matthew tomb (behind
circular window with cross)

The Church of St Peter in Chains is in the early phases of restoration.  The church was constructed in the 9th century on a foundation comprised of ancient Roman baths.  The Romanesque campanile (tower) was constructed in 920. 

St Peter in Chains tower

St Peter in Chains restoration

St Peter in Chains Christian fresco

In Salerno, we were introduced to the Taralli, a savory bagel-shaped biscuit with fennel and other spices served with wine.  They are served all over Amalfi and Tuscany, but none taste as good as the Salerno Taralli. 

Duomo San Matteo

Cathedral mosaic

Ave Maria mural

Norman aqueduct

Taralli