Where in the World are the Wendells: Montepulciano

View from our hotel room at Mueble il Riccio

The powerful city-states that dominated medieval Italy, specifically Siena, Florence and the Papal States (Rome) all vied for control of Montepulciano. Montepulciano is a walled city atop a very steep hill, only accessible through the original gates. It should have been easy to defend, but apparently not given that it was conquered multiple times. The views of the Tuscan landscape in all directions is awesome.

View of San Biagio

View from the Fortress

Entering the city through the Porta al Prato gate, one of the few portals through the medieval walls, the Corso (main street) winds its way up the very steep hill about half a mile to the Fortezza (fortress). The column topped by a lion holding the Medici family coat of arms reflected Florence’s control of Montepulciano. There is a palazzo with Etruscan and Roman relics embedded in its façade, reflecting the ancient civilizations that dominated this area. The clock tower is topped with a bell-ringing pulcinella (a 17th century comic puppet figure, similar to a clown and court jester).

Colonna del Marzocco

Palazzo Bucelli
Etruscan & Roman fragments

Porta al Prato

Bell tower pulcinella

Palazzo lion head

Street with Contrade flags

Porta di Farine

Via Talosa (our hotel)

Near the top of the hill is Piazza Grande, the main square on Montepulciano. Palazzo Comunale dominates the square, and its resemblance to Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio is not coincidental. The Duomo is notable because the façade is unfinished, comprised of its structural stone, they ran out of money before installing the marble façade. At the very top of the hill, the Fortezza is well maintained, and houses a wine bar and shop.

Piazza Grande, Duomo

Piazza Grande and
Palazzo Comunale

Palazzo Tarugi

Besides the walls and the ancient buildings, another vestige of medieval times is the neighborhood associations called Contrade (similar to Siena). The Contrade maintain neighborhood pride, announce births and deaths, and annually compete in Bravio delle Botti, a race in which two Contrade members push a 180-pound wine barrel up the steep streets to the main square (Piazza Grande). I can’t describe how incredibly steep the streets of Montepulciano are, this race is crazy! We happened to be in Montepulciano on Brovio delle Botti day, but couldn't get close to the action.

Bravio delle Botti picture

Bravio delle Botti parade

Bravio delle Botti knight

Bravio delle Botti flag throwers

It is obvious that you are in wine country, as every restaurant also serves as a wine bar, and they all sell bottles of wine to go. There are lots of great eating choices in Montepulciano. Osteria del Conte is near the Fortress, and was great. Ai Quattra Venti on the main square was excellent, and the server we had was so much fun. The baked Pecorino cheese with black truffles was excellent, as were the entrees. Caffe Poliziano opened in 1868 and maintains its original opulence, with a very small balcony with incredible views.

Baked Pecorino with black
truffle at Al Quattro Venti

Osteria del Conte ragu

Vino eccellente

We stayed at the Mueble il Riccio, just off Piazza Grande, a former palace with ten rooms. It is a beautiful building, good breakfast, and amazing views from some of the rooms.

Click "Older Posts" below to see the other Italian towns we visited.