Positano, Italy

 

Positano flourished in the 12th and 13th centuries, but was abandoned for fear of pirates, and was reborn in the 18th century.  The town sits on the site of a Roman villa complex that was buried when Mt Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD.  

There is no real town center in Positano, but lots of activity at the marina with beach clubs crowded with Italians on holiday.  The main street winds up the steep hillside, which is lined with shops.   Restaurant il Tridente has great views of Positano, but is overpriced (as is everything in Positano).  

Positano from il Tridente

Positano from the ferry

Positano marina

The Church of Santa Maria Assunta has iconic majolica tile roof.  Above the altar is the Black Madonna, a Byzantine painting from the 12th century.

Altar and Black Madonna

Santa Maria Assunta

We took the ferry to Positano but Traveled back to Sorrento from Positano via Sita bus was is cheap and easy, but must buy tickets at Tobbachi store near bus stop. 

Capri, Italy

 

Capri can be overwhelmed by tourists, so we took the first ferry from Sorrento in the morning to beat the crowds.  Upon arriving, we went immediately to Anacapri by taxi, it’s a fun ride for 35 Euros, the taxi stand is near the port terminal.  We were dropped off at Piazza Victoria (where the taxi stand for the return trip is located, and very near the Monte Solaro chairlift).  From Piazza Victoria we walked along Via Orlandi, which is a very cute pedestrian street with churches, shops, and cafes.  There are signs with historical information along the way, so it’s perfect for a self-guided tour. 

Anacapri Santa Sofia

Anacapri street

The Church of San Michele (pronounced "me kay lee" for Michael) Arcangelo is a must-see.  The Baroque church has an incredible, intricate majolica tile floor depicting Adam and Eve being cast from the Garden of Evil.  Look for the expressions on the animal faces.  This church is small but amazing and unique. 

San Michele domes

San Michele altar

San Michele tile floor

Casa Rosa is a small, quirky museum in the villa of a Swedish aristocrat, showcasing his lifetime collection of art.  It has a nice view of Anacapri and Mount Solaro from the rooftop terrace. Notice the “heat domes” on the roofs of the houses, typical in Amalfi (we saw them in Positano as well).  

View from Casa Rosa roof

Heat domes on roofs

View from Ville San Michele

Back at Piazza Vittoria, there is a path up the stairs and to the left lined with shops that leads to Villa San Michele and a great view down to Capri town.

Leaving Anacapri, we took a bus from Piazza Pache (less crowded than Piazza Vittoria) to Capri town.  Unlike the Sita buses, you buy the tickets on bus.  

Capri town centers around Piazza Umberto, with a medieval alley branching off to the left of the City Hall.  The clock tower is iconic, and the stairs down to the port located at the base of the tower.  The Cathedral has a marble floor that dates to Roman times.  Instead of the funicular, we walked down 15 minutes to the harbor via the steps from the clock tower.  

Clock Tower

View from Capri town

We took the Capri island boat tour, which includes the trip into the Blue Grotto (but not the entrance fee, which must be paid at the Grotto).  Unfortunately, the tide was too high so we could not enter.  I understand that more often than not, the grotto is closed due to high tides and rough water.  Circling the island was still a great experience – wear sunscreen and bring water!

Capri marina and Capri town

Emerald Grotto

Capri Faraglioni rock formations

Palermo, Sicily

 

Teatro Massimo

Via Roma

Palermo was a small trading port until the Arabs conquered it in AD 827, and Palermo flourished under Arab rule, becoming Europe’s second largest city (second only to Cordoba) by the 10th century.  Subsequently ruled by Normans, the Holy Roman Empire, and Spain, until unified with Italy in 1861, Palermo reflects these different cultures.  

Teatro Massimo stage

We started our visit with a tour of the famed Teatro Massimo (see exterior picture above), the third-largest opera house in Europe after Paris and Vienna.  Completed in 1897, it speaks to the splendor of 19th century Palermo, and is a stunning building both inside and out.

  

San Domenico

Palermo is famous for its street markets.  The Capo and Vucciria markets were typical with stalls selling fish, meat and produce.  We made the mistake of walking the larger Ballero Market at lunchtime – it was pure chaos with hundreds of people squeezing between the stalls to by prepared street food and provisions.  

The Baroque Church of San Domenico is impressive, and situated on a quiet plaza of busy Via Roma.  

San Domenico chapel

San Domenico nave

San Domenico organ

Palazzo Alliata di Pietrargliara

Across Via Roma and up 50 meters is one of the last remaining stone tower houses, built for security.  Palazzo Alliata di Pietraragliara at 14 Via Bandiera dates from 1573.  

La Martorana (left) and San Cataldo (right)

The Piazza Bellini contains three amazing churches.  San Cataldo was built during the transition of the city from Arab to Norman rule in the 12th century, so reflects both with a Norman nave and red Arab domes forming the roof.  La Martorana is famed for the gilded mosaics, but was closed the day we visited.  

San Cataldo domes

San Cataldo nave

Santa Catarina altar

Santa Caterina is an ornate Baroque church that served as the church for a cloistered convent.  The families of the nuns could attend masses on religious holidays, but the nuns would stay hidden behind golden screens.  There are unique detailed inlaid marble depictions of biblical stories on the pillars, for example Jonah and the whale and Abraham about to slay his son Isaac.

Santa Catarina ceiling

Abraham inlaid marble

Jonah inlaid marble

  

Fountain of Shame

Outside Santa Caterina, Piazza Pretoria is dominated by the Fountain of Shame, so called for the nude statues surrounding the fountain. 

Quattro Canti

Nearby, at the main intersection in Palermo, each of the four corners (“Quattro Canti”) has an ornate concave façade with sculptures of women representing the four seasons, from a young girl holding flowers representing Sprig, to an old woman representing Winter.   As the sun traverses the sky, it first illuminates the Spring corner at dusk, then Summer, Autumn, and finally Winter at sunset.  

Palermo Cathedral

Palermo Cathedral is absolutely immense.  Construction was begun on 1168, but took centuries to complete, thus incorporating influences from different empires that ruled Sicily.  Arab and Norman influences are visible outside, including an Arabic inscription from the Quran on one of the entry portico pillars.  The nave and ceiling are Gothic, with Baroque chapels.  The body of Palermo’s patron saint Santa Rosalia are preserved in an ornate silver altar.  

Cathedral and Santa Rosalia float

Arab inscription

Cathedral portico

Palermo Cathedral nave

Santa Rosalia reliquary

Leaving the Cathedral, we passed the beautiful Villa Bonanno Park and the Norman Palace.  Begun in the 9th century, the palace was extended by successive ruling empires, and the architecture reflects that influence through the centuries. 

Norman Palace (north)

Norman Palace (south)

Villa Bonanno Park

 

My friend Michele Becci lives part-time in Italy, and publishes the outstanding Our Italian Table.  If you love Italian food, I highly recommend you check it out. Michele recommended Vossia Cucina Mediteranea restaurant which was excellent.  Per her suggestion, we tried the local white Carricante e Catarratto, which was great.  Tammy had the Pasta with Sicilian pesto, and I had the delicious Bucatini with Sardines, anchovies, bread crumbs, onion and spices.  

San Lorenze

 

Piazza Garrafello, levelled
in WWII and never rebuilt

 

Santa Caterina Cloister

 

Sunset over Sicily