Where in the World are the Wendells

Grote Markt, Antwerp

During our visit to the BeNeLux countries, we stayed Antwerp and day-tripped to the other towns we wanted to visit. Antwerp was a perfect home base, as it is big enough to have lots to do and many great restaurants to try.

Antwerp

During the 14th and 15th centuries, Antwerp emerged as the center of global trade, with Spanish and Portuguese ships delivering cargo from the far east and the Americas. Antwerp was caught in the war between Protestant Dutch and Catholic Spanish in the late 16th century, hastening its decline as merchants and traders moved to Amsterdam (which would emerge as the new global trading powerhouse). Antwerp re-emerged as a global power in the late 19th century, exploiting resources (diamonds, slaves) from its colonies; even today, 80% of the world's diamonds flow through Antwerp. The city's architecture represents a mix of these two periods of tremendous wealth.

Antwerp Centraal station

Arriving at Antwerp Central Station, we were blown away by the opulence of one of Europe's most beautiful train stations. We stayed at the Sapphire House, a beautiful old hotel just 10 minutes from the station.

The Cathedral of Our Lady was built from 1352 to 1521, when Antwerp was at its peak. The interior is beautiful, with four paintings by Antwerp's own Peter Paul Rubens. Medieval streets surround the church, filled with cafes and shops. The Grote Markt (main market square) is ringed by 16th century gabled Guild (trade associations) Houses. The Market is connected to the river by Suikerrui street, which was previously a canal, bringing riches from around the world to the Grote Markt. Old Butchers Hall nearby dates from 1504, and lies in a sterile neighborhood that was destroyed by Nazi bombing in WW II, but this building miraculously survived.

Cath. of Our Lady pulpit

Cath. of Our Lady nave

Cath. of Our Lady spire

Cath. of Our Lady tryptic

Cath. of Our Lady window

Cath. of Our Ladychapel

Handelsbuers

The Handelsbeurs stock exchange (near our hotel) is a stunning building with an arcade interior. The stock exchange was established here in 1583 but was lost in a fire; the current building dates from 1872.

Snijders-Rockox MUseum
painting on marble

The Snijders-Rockox Museum is a fascinating look at two adjoining townhouses of elites in 16th century Antwerp, including their art collections. Near the old Dockyards (Amsterdam remains the second-largest port in Europe after Rotterdam), is the fascinating Red Star Museum. During the great European migration between 1873-1935, over two million migrants passed through Antwerp on their way to America, and the Red Star Line was the primary carrier of these migrants (many from Eastern Europe). The museum followed their journey from their homelands to Antwerp, describing how they were processed through various border stations along the way, and finally at Antwerp's docks. It was a fascinating museum!

One of our favorite museums was the Museum Platin-Moretus, documenting the history of one of Antwerp's most prolific printers and publishers. The family business was founded in 1546, and the tour takes you through their impressive home with period furniture, and also a tour of the 17th century printing shop. Near this museum is the quaint Vrijdagmarkt (Friday Market) square, ringed with cafes and bars.

Museum Platin-Moretus

Restaurant t'Hofke

Vrijdagmarkt

Theaterplein Saturday Market provides a huge variety of produce and prepared foods, clothing and household goods. South of the old town is t'Zuid, a great neighborhood with lots of restaurants, especially along Volkstraat. In t’Zuid, we had drinks at Vitrin on Marnixplaat with a view of Neptune monument, and dinner at the Fiskebar (fish) on the circle.

t'Zuid storefront

Museum of Fine Arts

t'Zuid circle

During the peak years of economic growth around 1900, much of the wealth came from exploitation of their African colonies, Antwerp's aristocracy built incredible mansions along Cogels-Osylei (near Antwerp Bercham station), the mansions are incredible.

Cogels-Osylei

We had an excellent meal at T'Hofke, which is located down a tiny, winding medieval alley. The atmospheric was awesome, serving great local specialties. We enjoyed dinner at de Bomma, where I ordered a delicious trio of Flemish stews: veal fricasee; Flemish pork stew with bacon, mustard and beer; pork cheeks. Near our hotel, we had dinner at Barbouf Bistro, in an historic courtyard behind a 15th century church. Tammy had pasta with sun dried tomatoes, pine nuts, arugula, olive oil, pancetta, and parmesan (a recipe Tammy will copy!).

Antwerp Castle

Cathedral of Our Lady spire

Antwerp City Hall

Grote Markt

Antwerp Theater

Sapphire House hotel

Barbouf Bistro

Ghent

Ghent is a medieval town that grew tremendously wealthy through textile trade, becoming one of Europe's largest and richest cities around 1500. Ghent is one of our favorite cities that we visited, with medieval streets, market squares loaded with cafes, and beautiful canals. The view from St Michael's bridge is fantastic. The Patersol neighborhood across the Leie River was great to explore, with winding streets filled with restaurants. We enjoyed a guided food tour which included five stops: Gruut brewery with Amber beer, great cheese, salami and ham plate; fries with pork stew sauce; chocolate shop; meat balls; gelato. Our guide Sophie was great, she lives in Ghent and shared her love for the city.

"Dutch" Theater

Belfry

Post Office

River Leie

Canal houses

Castle of the Counts

The most famous site in Ghent is St Bavo cathedral, constructed from 1350-1559, and the Jan van Eyck Altarpiece. The altarpiece is justifiably famous, and survived being hidden from iconoclast Protestants and art-steeling Naxis. One of the twelve panels had been missing since 1932.

St Bavo's

St Bavo's Altarpiece

St Bavo's pulpit

Patershol

Baudelostraat

Patershol

Brussels

Having visited Brussels in the past, we just stopped for a day to hit the main sites. The Grand Place is amazing, one of the most impressive squares in Europe. The Swan House at #9 is where Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels wrote the Communist Manifesto in 1848. Not far from Grand Place, the Manneken Pis is famous but not very impressive in person. The upper town is quiet compared to the tourist frenzy of the old town. The Royal Palace is impressive, Notre Dame du Sablon church dates from the 14th century, and there is a beautiful park at Place du Petit Sablon.

Swan House

Grand Place

Mennekin Pis

Church of St Nicholas

Grand Place

Place de l'Albertine

Notre Dame de Sablon

Leuven

Founded under Julius Caeser, the town flourished in the Middle Ages primarily through textiles. Pope Martin V established the Catholic University of Leuven (KU Leuven) in 1425, which quickly became one of the most renowned universities in Europe. The amazing Stadhuis (city hall) was completed in 1463, and is one of the most beautiful public buildings we've seen. St Pieterskirk has an impressive alter screen and early Renaissance paintings; the clock tower rings the quarter hours, and a golden bellringer hammers the hour. We had drinks on Grote Markt overlooking St Pieters at Gambrinus. Oude Markt is a beautiful square lined with typical Flemish gabled houses, many with restaurants.

Stadhus

Oude (old) Markt

Oude Markt

St Peter's

Leuven Markt

Stadhus

St Peter's

Bruges (Brugge in Flemish)

This is one of Europe's most beautiful and well-preserved medieval towns. It thrived from the 11th through 15th centuries as a center of the textile trade. When the harbor filled with silt in the 16th, the economy collapsed until revitalized by tourism in the past 40 years. Markt (Market Square) is flanked by the incredible Bell Tower built between 1300 and 1486, the impressive Town Hall and its beautiful Gothic Room with amazing murals. One of the townhouses on the Markt is the oldest house in Bruges, dating from the 15th century. Walking along the winding canals is really amazing, with incredible views of the medieval city.